Lunch review: Oakes Grill at Hanbury Manor

By Richard Cawthorne on December 23rd 2011

About the restaurant

Set amid the grandeur of Hanbury Manor, Oakes Grill is a trek from the main desk but worth the walk. Perhaps to offset the grand surroundings, it goes for the light and airy touch. Views of the hotel’s golf course and the option of dining on the terrace are nice touches.

Atmosphere and decor

The restaurant covers a large area with about 100 covers. Despite that, it boasts of and conveys an informal feel. Bright red cushions on the chairs, highly-polished floors and tables and sparkling cutlery and glassware add more than a touch of class.

Service

Three out of three - efficient, friendly but not intrusive, delivered by a staff of two, both in suits, who clearly knew their stuff.

The menu

Strangely unimaginative given the venue. A choice of six starters, eight mains and five desserts plus ‘sandwiches and light snacks’ looks adequate but we were hard pressed to find dishes to write about. Spaghetti bolognaise with garlic bread or the ‘Marriott burger’ sound very strange in Hanbury Manor.

To start

My goat’s cheese and beetroot salad with pears and walnut vinaigrette (£7.25) was worth the search, a properly balanced combination of flavours though I would have preferred a bit more cheese. Grilled chicken Caesar salad with baby gem, parmesan, croutons and anchovies (£8.75) also went down well, the chicken warm and moist and the anchovies fresh.

Main courses

My companion’s Scottish salmon steak with new potatoes and sauce béarnaise (£16.50) was pronounced a hit. I chose North Atlantic cod with pomme forestiere and lemon butter (£16.50). It proved similarly adequate, but you see what I mean about the choice.

Desserts

A shared mixed berry and almond tart (£6.75) was a fitting end to the meal. Other options include sticky toffee pudding, vanilla crème brulee, coffee tiramisu and ice cream

The experience

An expensive but relaxed interlude. The menu was limited, but all ingredients were fresh and dishes properly prepared and presented.

The cost of this lunch for two with two glasses of wine and one coffee was £68.95 plus service. Wines are from £24 a bottle or £4.50 a glass. This is an independent review featuring a restaurant selected and experienced by our food and drink editor. The restaurant was not told it was being reviewed.

Oakes Grill,

Hanbury Manor,

A Marriott Hotel & Country Club

Ware SG12 0SD

01920 487722

www.Hanbury-Manor.co.uk

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